Runway 101: Channeling the 60s
Returning to her well known love of art, fashion designer Lisa Perry drew inspiration for her Spring Summer 2015 collection from the work of two of her favorite—and dramatically different—Abstract Expressionist painters, Barnett Newman and Jackson Pollock. Playing the bold colors and clean, ordered lines of Newman’s color-field paintings against what she describes as the “chaotic, intense rhythm of Pollock,” the designer fused the two contrasting sensibilities into her own singular concept with designs that reflect—and push forward—the signatures of both groundbreaking artists.
Here, Lisa Perry shares her creative process and collaboration with legendary hairstylist Didier Malige of Art Partner, who created the uber cool hair looks for Wednesday’s presentation exclusively with a stellar lineup of hairstyling products from René Furterer. “Although I am always inspired by the great art and design of the ‘60s, I never want the clothes to look too literal,” says Lisa. “This season the collection incorporates our favorite A-line shapes, but also mixes in modern fabrics and other elements.”
Show-stoppers such as a white crepe jumpsuit with red paint detail, a quilted splatter and string trapeze dress and the statement-making use of clear vinyl throughout, from jackets to sleeves to ruffle tops, were shining examples of the collection’s artistry. “The hair reflects this feel,” continues Lisa. “Our stylist Patti Wilson has a long history of working with Didier and they speak each other’s language. We’re honored and thrilled to be working withthis phenomenal team. I love the glamour and volume of hair from the ‘60s and Didier knows how to make it look modern, cool and today. The René Furterer products are perfect for this look.”
“The idea for the hair is to look ‘60s but fresh,” says Didier. “We want hair to be a bit more textured. The hair also needs to be clean.” Describing the finished look, sleek and side-parted with an eyebrow-grazing half bang in front, and long and straight in back with light teasing at the crown, Didier referenced two influential style icons of 1960s Swinging London: “The look is like Twiggy in front, very flat across the forehead, and Jean Shrimpton in back.” In keeping with the mid-century artistic vibe, makeup artist extraordinaire Lyne Desnoyers, Executive Director of Makeup Artistry for MAC, also referenced ‘60s minimalism with pale lips and cheeks and frankly flirtatious lashes. Here, we go behind the scenes with Didier as he leads his team in creating his alluring modern take on mod style.
« I start by combing through clean, dry hair and make a deep, short side part.
« To add the texture we want, I spray hair at the roots with René Furterer VOLUMEA volumizing conditioning spray – no rinse, massaging product into the hair. Then I spray it throughout the rest of the hair, and comb it through to distribute product from roots to ends. What I like about this spray is that it doesn’t make the hair sticky and it gives you very healthy hair. If the model’s hair is thicker or more textured, we might use René Furterer FIORAVANTI shine enhancing no rinse detangling spray instead of the VOLUMEA product to prep hair for blow-drying.
« Next, I blow-dry hair, directing the nozzle attachment down the hair shaft, and rough-dry hair with my hands. While hair is still slightly damp I continue to blow-dry hair, using a large round brush (the CP Creative Pro Ultra Ceramic Ion round brush) for a smooth sleek finish. For models with shorter or finer hair we add extensions as needed for extra length or to fill out the hair.
« After the blow-out I flat-iron hair because we want it to be really straight, especially the ends. Once hair is smoothed we slip in Japanese crease-free hair clips in front to secure the hair without leaving any dents as we continue styling. Now we’re ready to lightly tease the crown. We want to make it very stable and keep the volume over the profile. The secret is spraying hair with René Furterer NATURIA dry shampoo for more body and support. I brush it through hair with a Mason Pearson brush, and then spray each section at the roots with more of the dry shampoo before back-combing each section with a teasing comb or teasing brush.
« After the crown is teased and smoothed, I give hair a light misting of René Furterer VEGETAL FINISHING SPRAY for hold. Before models are sent to makeup, I slip in Japanese straight hair pins throughout the back to keep hair from separating. We want to keep that clean line. If needed, we might trim the ends of the hair straight across to make sure we have an even, perfectly straight line in back.
« Last, once models are dressed, we remove the pins and lightly finesse the hair, tucking it behind the ears, and then gently loosening a few pieces to come forward to frame the face without obscuring the clean lines of the clothes. Now we have a cool, modern look that’s perfect for Lisa’s cool, modern collection.
*Photo Credits: Paul Quitoriano for René Furterer